I firmly believe that the holiday parks
I stay in, other than the Cambridge Country Lodge, are under the
impression that I hate staying there.
They might be right.
Why waste a sunrise?
This philosophy in mind, I slid into
the driver's seat this morning equipped with my stolen oranges (there
was an orange tree right outside the kitchen.. do I say no to that?),
and my pajama pants tucked into my hot pink gumboots. I am the
epitome of fashion.
Leaving Kerikeri, and not sad to see it
go, I steered Wazza north towards the Cape. I didn't know where the
road went, aside from north, but I assumed somewhere in the process
of driving there I'd find a bay somewhere that would show a lovely
sunrise. En route on highway 1, I accidentally made the turnoff onto
some sort of tourist highway. Best mistake ever.
Along the way there was a nice pull-off
by Matauri Bay where I parked the van and proceeded to set up my
breakfast. While I was doing all of this, the sun put on a glorious
display of reds, oranges, pinks, yellows... all over the already
stunning landscape. I still can't get over how incredibly gorgeous
this land is. I literally looked up from what I was doing
(running in circles, leaping over the van seats and shivering.. a
lot) and my mouth dropped. Usually my camera fares pretty well with
sunrises and sunsets, but it couldn't even comprehend the colors that
I was asking it to entrap. There simply aren't words to describe what
I was so privileged to witness.
And yes, the pictures are from the same
sunrise. I was given one heck of a show.
Leaving stop
number one, I continued on the tourist highway, stopping at another
beach to snap some pictures. I stopped and talked for a bit to a
couple from Auckland. They have a holiday home in the bay (lucky
them) but usually they can't come up because of work and what not.
Heck, if I were
them I'd make time. Have I
mentioned how much I despise Auckland? Because I do. And I think the
feelings are mutual.
Upon
the recommendation from the “wine guy” at Kumeu River Winery, I
drove through Mangonui looking for the world famous fish and chips
shop. Hungry or not, I would have probably feasted... had they been
open. Oh well, money saved. Given my planned path of travel, it's not
like I had a choice to drive through there or not. I also stopped by
Cook's Beach and Cable Bay, the latter of which is famous for its
pink sand. Did I see it? No. Why? I learned of this after
I drove through. Whoops. I had bigger fish to fry: Cape Reinga.
Regardless,
here's a token Cable Beach shot. Ohhh weird trees. They were
everywhere.
I
drove what seemed like ages up windy roads, around bays, and through
teeny tiny little towns.
You
know how you think of “brilliant” ideas and upon execution of
said ideas, realize how absolutely terrible they are? Well, today was
absolutely exemplary of that. Let's see.. driving 15K on a gravel
road sounds like a genius idea. I know, let's follow that up with a
run on squishy sand on the beach!
Stupid,
stupid ideas. And yet I carried both to completion. Never said they
weren't worth it.
I
turned off to drive to Spirits Bay and I was greeted by some lazy
horses. Little did I know that the area was actually a DOC campsite.
Next time.
Curiosity
and a twinge of anxiety got the best of me, so I had to go out and
see where this 15K slip-n-slide landed me. I hope the rattling that
my campervan has now adopted isn't permanent.
Despite
the idiocy of running through sand, the sights were incredible. I had
the entire beach to myself... only one other person was there and he
was hiking among the sand dunes with his black lab. Even the dunes
were beautiful. The bay was surrounded by rugged cliffs, earning its
name as the Maori believed that this is where the ancestor Tohe
departed to leave on a journey, telling others that if he were to
die, they should reach out and catch his spirit. The highest part of
Northland is deeply rooted in Maori culture, as this is the area
where they believed spirits came to go into the next world. Even
specific locations on the Cape are designated areas where spirits
entered into the underworld.
At
any rate, the beach itself was covered, in parts, with teeny tiny
little rainbow colored shells. The water itself was the most stunning
shade of blue, surrounded on each side by green, rugged outcroppings
of land. It was phenomenal.
I'm literally up to my ears in Spirits
Bay photos. It's a little absurd. But then again.. so pretty. I'm
like a little 5 year old.. all the colors.. so.. distracting...
Let's just say the majority of the run
turned into a photoshoot.
I drove through Te Paki, which is known
for its mosaic appearance. Looking out into the distance you can see
dunes, wetlands and grasslands. All of these are nestled in between
mountains and then are next to the ocean. Mosaic indeed.
I stopped just before the Cape to have
some lunch and looking back I took a quick snapshot of the road. I
guess when you're driving it you don't really comprehend how perilous
it is. I can't believe that until 2010 it was completely unsealed.
That means dirt road. For 19K. Up and down mountains. Sheer
drop-offs. On dirt. In the middle of nowhere.
Cape Reinga is just amazing to see. I
can't even explain the myriad of colors that hits the eye.. the
rugged beauty that it has. The Tasman and Pacific meet here, and in
that particular spot are whirlpools and constant vicious currents
tossing and turning. The turf is no less calm. The grass cover
mountains that jut into the ocean, stopping to reveal black rocks
that reach even further into the waters. Apparently humpback whales
have been spotted itching themselves on the rocks below. It's a
little comical to picture a giant whale massaging itself against the
land like a personal masseuse.
Prepare for a series of photos. Lots of
them. The first is looking back towards Spirits Bay.
That wee bitty clearing that appears to
be a trail, is. And I took it.
When I was walking down the trail,
literally down, to my left were sands reminiscent of the colored
sands that were so spectacular on Fraser Island.
Token heart attack shot.
Continuing down to the beach far, far
below I couldn't stop snapping pictures like a paparazzi. Really, it
got annoying and I'm by myself.
Surprise, I had the beach to myself.
Minus the seagull I chased around.... Note that he is running away
from me.
Thoroughly winded, I departed Cape
Reinga and headed to see the massive sand dunes. I'm talking MASSIVE.
I have to confess, I'm a little disappointed in how my camera
captured them. Very insufficient. They are much
bigger than they appear in the pictures. Some people use them for
sand tobogganing down the dunes. I can't imagine how that turns out
though, given it leads into the Te Paki stream and there's NO time to
stop.
Really,
it looks like the Sahara.
Driving
out through a cow/sheep pasture, I had the perfect chance for some
up-close and personal encounters with livestock. Love them.
There
was a paddock full of sheep when I was leaving, including a brand new
baby lamb. Actually there were two and one had been birthed through
the fence, leaving him bleating all over the place since his mum was
blocked from him. He was trying desperately to find a way through the
fence- heart-wrenching. Despite my fears of getting hollered at by
the nearby farmers, I grabbed the little lamb (still wet from being
born) and plopped him on the other side of the fence, shaky little
legs and all. He just kinda looked at me funny. The sheep, not the
farmer.
I
was going to stay at the Waegner's holiday park, but decided to drive
a bit further into Ahipara which was actually really nice accommodation. There was a BIG screen TV and a fireplace! Not to
mention it's a 5 minute walk to the 90-mile beach. AKA the sand
highway.
I
walked down to the beach to see the sunset and saw not only that, but
a group of college-age kids actually surfing
in the water while being pulled by a car along the beach. So
basically they were wakeboarding in the shallows but instead of being
pulled by a dingy, it was an SUV. Sadly, I wasn't quick enough to
snap a shot of that anomaly.
There
was also a little seabird playing in the water right in front of me.
It was adorable watching him bob in and out of the surf. Once he
surfaced, he ran headfirst into the oncoming waves, making it very
entertaining.
During
dinner I talked with a retired man who sold his house and car in
order to buy a ute and caravan with his wife. As he says “I'm 65
and I'm not getting any younger. I need to see my country.” A
common belief shared by many kiwis I might add. And I have to show
off my culinary skills. I had pasta, pumpkin soup mix and cream
cheese. Threw it all in together and it was delicious. Take that,
budget cooking.
The
All Blacks had a rematch with Ireland tonight, so we all gathered
around to watch it. French, Dutch, American, South African, Kiwi...
all were in attendance around the TV. I met another American from PA,
Brady, who gave me a Steinlager (kiwi beer- good stuff). I spent the
game with him and his traveling companion, a guy from Amsterdam who
could speak just about every language under the sun, including a
flawless American accent. Needless to say the game was incredible to
watch, from the Haka performed by the All Blacks to the final try in
the last 20 seconds that won the game. Spectacular.
And then when I refused to use my
headlamp on my way to Wazza because “my nightvision will kick in”
I ran clean into a fence. Lovely bruise from that one.
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