The last.

Sadly, I departed Dargaville after morning tea with Joyce and stopping by Ray's work to bid adieu. Today was dreary and uneventful. I toured a parking deck with Wazza to save effort on the literal hike back to BASE Auckland city backpacker's.But here's a picture of Wazza, my home for the past 10 days.

I had a nice evening run through the Auckland Domain for the last time tonight, not terribly sad to see the city go. However I will really miss the kiwis and their countryside. Nothing compares to their hospitality nor this country's stunning beauty. I'll be back.

The day of the livestock

Okay so this is kinda gross.

Actually, really gross.

BUT in defense of my hygiene habits, it is really cold here and I don't sweat when I run.

Confession: I slept in my running clothes so that I would be warm in the morning to run on the beach. Yeah, that happened.

And it was worth it. The 90 mile beach (really 60 miles long) has hard, compact sand and it's perfect to run on.

I took my sweet time leaving Ahipara and shipwreck bay this morning only to be slowed even further by a road block... of cows.

They were actually being herded by a woman on horseback. Am I dreaming? I need that job.

Another thing I love about this place.. honesty boxes. Folks grow too much produce (dirt cheap here) and leave them on the sides of the roads with dirt cheap prices. You take what you want, leave the money and go on your way. But I don't need 5 kilos of mandarin oranges. Or avocados.

Ironically, another couple from the holiday park in Ahipara ended up following me (or I followed them) all the way to the Kauri parks. Weird.

We both took the ferry to Rawene, and while waiting I was attacked by chickens. Seriously. They came and presented themselves at the drivers window expecting handouts. Look chickens, I have only enough to feed myself. Try someone else.

Passing Rawene I came to Omapere. Omapere is a little seaside town with a DOC reserve on a small outcropping. Oh. My. Goodness. I had no idea that the little park would hold so much. It was stunning.

I walked down on the coastal track to the beach and tramped around past the fishermen to the other side. Mariner's bay I think is what it was. The beach was cluttered with massive chunks of rock and to be perfectly honest, very alien. It was like a giant playground, or labyrinth, of huge rocks laying in the sand. It was a feat getting around to the other side.

From there I went to the Waipoua Forest where the largest Kauri tree still stands. I grossly underestimated how big this bugger was. I walked down the boardwalk, erected to protect the fragile root systems, to see two women standing in the clearing staring at something I couldn't yet see. I was not expecting what they were seeing.

This tree is HUGE. Bigger than a house around the middle alone. Pictures can't even start to describe how large the 2,000 year old tree is, Tane Mahuta. The girth of this tree is 13.8 meters. Woah.

Pictures can't even show just how big this guy is.

Call it cliche or weird, but the Avatar soundtrack played in my head the rest of the day. At another stop, I hiked to Yaka, the 7^th largest Kauri, and touched it. It was like touching a really big kinda soft rock. Amazing. I also saw Cathedral Grove, which was like a big crowd of Kauris. Cue Avatar again.

I also stopped by Kaiiwi Lakes on my way into Dargaville. They were pretty, but after the Cape.. just ok.

Then I headed to Bayly's beach where I drove on the beach, hopefully not to the dismay of the rental company, to see the sunset. It's interesting driving onto the beach.... and entering the highway. The seagulls were having a blast on the beach, eating the heads of snapper that local fishers had cast aside to retain only the valuable bodies.

Then I headed to Dargaville where I met up with Ray and Joyce. They not only allowed me to park there, but I watched Australia with them while my bed that Joyce prepared for me heated up with an electric blanket. I had tea and bikkies (biscuit cookies) with the pair as well. It was luxurious. They treated me like family- I hope I can go back to see them again!

Sunrises and sets

I firmly believe that the holiday parks I stay in, other than the Cambridge Country Lodge, are under the impression that I hate staying there.

They might be right.

Why waste a sunrise?

This philosophy in mind, I slid into the driver's seat this morning equipped with my stolen oranges (there was an orange tree right outside the kitchen.. do I say no to that?), and my pajama pants tucked into my hot pink gumboots. I am the epitome of fashion.

Leaving Kerikeri, and not sad to see it go, I steered Wazza north towards the Cape. I didn't know where the road went, aside from north, but I assumed somewhere in the process of driving there I'd find a bay somewhere that would show a lovely sunrise. En route on highway 1, I accidentally made the turnoff onto some sort of tourist highway. Best mistake ever.

Along the way there was a nice pull-off by Matauri Bay where I parked the van and proceeded to set up my breakfast. While I was doing all of this, the sun put on a glorious display of reds, oranges, pinks, yellows... all over the already stunning landscape. I still can't get over how incredibly gorgeous this land is. I literally looked up from what I was doing (running in circles, leaping over the van seats and shivering.. a lot) and my mouth dropped. Usually my camera fares pretty well with sunrises and sunsets, but it couldn't even comprehend the colors that I was asking it to entrap. There simply aren't words to describe what I was so privileged to witness.

And yes, the pictures are from the same sunrise. I was given one heck of a show.

Leaving stop number one, I continued on the tourist highway, stopping at another beach to snap some pictures. I stopped and talked for a bit to a couple from Auckland. They have a holiday home in the bay (lucky them) but usually they can't come up because of work and what not.

Heck, if I were them I'd make time. Have I mentioned how much I despise Auckland? Because I do. And I think the feelings are mutual.

Upon the recommendation from the “wine guy” at Kumeu River Winery, I drove through Mangonui looking for the world famous fish and chips shop. Hungry or not, I would have probably feasted... had they been open. Oh well, money saved. Given my planned path of travel, it's not like I had a choice to drive through there or not. I also stopped by Cook's Beach and Cable Bay, the latter of which is famous for its pink sand. Did I see it? No. Why? I learned of this after I drove through. Whoops. I had bigger fish to fry: Cape Reinga.

Regardless, here's a token Cable Beach shot. Ohhh weird trees. They were everywhere.

I drove what seemed like ages up windy roads, around bays, and through teeny tiny little towns.

You know how you think of “brilliant” ideas and upon execution of said ideas, realize how absolutely terrible they are? Well, today was absolutely exemplary of that. Let's see.. driving 15K on a gravel road sounds like a genius idea. I know, let's follow that up with a run on squishy sand on the beach!

Stupid, stupid ideas. And yet I carried both to completion. Never said they weren't worth it.

I turned off to drive to Spirits Bay and I was greeted by some lazy horses. Little did I know that the area was actually a DOC campsite. Next time.

Curiosity and a twinge of anxiety got the best of me, so I had to go out and see where this 15K slip-n-slide landed me. I hope the rattling that my campervan has now adopted isn't permanent.

Despite the idiocy of running through sand, the sights were incredible. I had the entire beach to myself... only one other person was there and he was hiking among the sand dunes with his black lab. Even the dunes were beautiful. The bay was surrounded by rugged cliffs, earning its name as the Maori believed that this is where the ancestor Tohe departed to leave on a journey, telling others that if he were to die, they should reach out and catch his spirit. The highest part of Northland is deeply rooted in Maori culture, as this is the area where they believed spirits came to go into the next world. Even specific locations on the Cape are designated areas where spirits entered into the underworld.

At any rate, the beach itself was covered, in parts, with teeny tiny little rainbow colored shells. The water itself was the most stunning shade of blue, surrounded on each side by green, rugged outcroppings of land. It was phenomenal.

I'm literally up to my ears in Spirits Bay photos. It's a little absurd. But then again.. so pretty. I'm like a little 5 year old.. all the colors.. so.. distracting...

Let's just say the majority of the run turned into a photoshoot.

I drove through Te Paki, which is known for its mosaic appearance. Looking out into the distance you can see dunes, wetlands and grasslands. All of these are nestled in between mountains and then are next to the ocean. Mosaic indeed.

I stopped just before the Cape to have some lunch and looking back I took a quick snapshot of the road. I guess when you're driving it you don't really comprehend how perilous it is. I can't believe that until 2010 it was completely unsealed. That means dirt road. For 19K. Up and down mountains. Sheer drop-offs. On dirt. In the middle of nowhere. 

Cape Reinga is just amazing to see. I can't even explain the myriad of colors that hits the eye.. the rugged beauty that it has. The Tasman and Pacific meet here, and in that particular spot are whirlpools and constant vicious currents tossing and turning. The turf is no less calm. The grass cover mountains that jut into the ocean, stopping to reveal black rocks that reach even further into the waters. Apparently humpback whales have been spotted itching themselves on the rocks below. It's a little comical to picture a giant whale massaging itself against the land like a personal masseuse.

Prepare for a series of photos. Lots of them. The first is looking back towards Spirits Bay.

That wee bitty clearing that appears to be a trail, is. And I took it.

When I was walking down the trail, literally down, to my left were sands reminiscent of the colored sands that were so spectacular on Fraser Island.

Token heart attack shot.

Continuing down to the beach far, far below I couldn't stop snapping pictures like a paparazzi. Really, it got annoying and I'm by myself.

Surprise, I had the beach to myself. Minus the seagull I chased around.... Note that he is running away from me.

Thoroughly winded, I departed Cape Reinga and headed to see the massive sand dunes. I'm talking MASSIVE. I have to confess, I'm a little disappointed in how my camera captured them. Very insufficient. They are much bigger than they appear in the pictures. Some people use them for sand tobogganing down the dunes. I can't imagine how that turns out though, given it leads into the Te Paki stream and there's NO time to stop.

Really, it looks like the Sahara.

Driving out through a cow/sheep pasture, I had the perfect chance for some up-close and personal encounters with livestock. Love them.

There was a paddock full of sheep when I was leaving, including a brand new baby lamb. Actually there were two and one had been birthed through the fence, leaving him bleating all over the place since his mum was blocked from him. He was trying desperately to find a way through the fence- heart-wrenching. Despite my fears of getting hollered at by the nearby farmers, I grabbed the little lamb (still wet from being born) and plopped him on the other side of the fence, shaky little legs and all. He just kinda looked at me funny. The sheep, not the farmer.

I was going to stay at the Waegner's holiday park, but decided to drive a bit further into Ahipara which was actually really nice accommodation. There was a BIG screen TV and a fireplace! Not to mention it's a 5 minute walk to the 90-mile beach. AKA the sand highway.

I walked down to the beach to see the sunset and saw not only that, but a group of college-age kids actually surfing in the water while being pulled by a car along the beach. So basically they were wakeboarding in the shallows but instead of being pulled by a dingy, it was an SUV. Sadly, I wasn't quick enough to snap a shot of that anomaly.

There was also a little seabird playing in the water right in front of me. It was adorable watching him bob in and out of the surf. Once he surfaced, he ran headfirst into the oncoming waves, making it very entertaining.

During dinner I talked with a retired man who sold his house and car in order to buy a ute and caravan with his wife. As he says “I'm 65 and I'm not getting any younger. I need to see my country.” A common belief shared by many kiwis I might add. And I have to show off my culinary skills. I had pasta, pumpkin soup mix and cream cheese. Threw it all in together and it was delicious. Take that, budget cooking.

The All Blacks had a rematch with Ireland tonight, so we all gathered around to watch it. French, Dutch, American, South African, Kiwi... all were in attendance around the TV. I met another American from PA, Brady, who gave me a Steinlager (kiwi beer- good stuff). I spent the game with him and his traveling companion, a guy from Amsterdam who could speak just about every language under the sun, including a flawless American accent. Needless to say the game was incredible to watch, from the Haka performed by the All Blacks to the final try in the last 20 seconds that won the game. Spectacular.

And then when I refused to use my headlamp on my way to Wazza because “my nightvision will kick in” I ran clean into a fence. Lovely bruise from that one.

Caves and falls

It's funny how much a backpacker's accommodation can start to feel like home. It's also funny how much warmer 6 deg C feels compared to -2 deg C. I actually wore shorts while I ate my dinner outside tonight.

Wanting to get to Kumeu River Winery by 10:30 this morning, I departed the Lodge around 7. I said goodbye to Malcom and some of the hilarious ladies there for Field days. The drive was a little uneventful with the exception of some spectacular scenery, pretty normal for New Zealand. Oh, and Auckland traffic was miserable although much less than Atlanta. The drivers are significantly better.

Arriving early to the winery despite the traffic, the ladies on hand looked a little puzzled when I introduced myself. Regardless, they welcomed me openly and showed me the giant oak barrels for aging, the presses, holding vats, fermentation vats, bottling area, lab, and the giant warehouse. It wasn't until about 10 minutes later when one of the owners arrived, knew who I was, and immediately began serving wine samples. It was awesome. Some snooty french people came in while I was tasting the wine, asked for a tour and were denied. I'm privileged.

Accepting that today would, other than that little rendezvous, be really dull I hit the road again heading north to Whangarei. It was pretty easy to accept though, considering the dreary weather. I drove along the coast, taking in the glorious shoreline dotted with little (freezing) surfers. One spot in particular, Langs Beach (or near there), had a very very colorful loo.

In Whangarei there are several outdoorsy spots, one of which is Abbey Caves. I found it on accident really, the idea of walking in a creepy dark tunnel alone doesn't sound appealing. Regardless, I pulled off at the signpost and walked a little ways down the path, chickening out before I got to the mouth of the deep dark scary caves. But I got pictures of ponies!

Continuing my hunt for outdoor hikes, I went to the AH Reed Memorial Kauri Park. Intending it to be a short hike, I walked up to the Pukenui falls and weaved in and out of the majestic Kauris along the way. It also was along a beautiful stone creekbed which made the scenery spectacular.

At the peak of the falls was a crowd of young people, my age I'd suppose. Being that awkward American, I unabashedly walked up to them and introduced myself to one on the outskirts. Turns out they were from Argentina on working holiday. The young woman I spent a bit talking to recommended that I hike to the Whangarei falls. I had no idea that hiking to them from there was possible, though I intended to drive there later. Stay outside and save money on gas? Heck yes. I walked.

A little sidenote about gas. It is ridiculously expensive. I feel like every time I fill up this beast I'm needing to fill it mere seconds later. It's absurd. Bye bye savings.

Anyways, I opted to hike to the much bigger falls which led me along a canopy boardwalk, alongside a paradise-style riding stable, through cow paddocks, over bridges (the kiwis love their swinging bridges), along the creek and finally to the falls. Along the way I did see a large tree with ropes danging precariously over the creek. There were hand-holds to climb it. Much like a cat, I stupidly scrambled up the giant tree and had no idea how to get back down. It was tricky. I'll leave it at that.

I can't even describe how utopian the scenery was walking to the falls. Therefore pictures will have to do.

Fully hiked out, I did some necessary errands in Whangarei (aka petrol) and headed towards Paihia. However, I changed my mind at the last minute and decided to stay in Kerikeri instead. Proving to be the perfect driving day (on an off spitting rain), the sky opened up on several different occasions to reveal a spectacular rainbow (actually try 4 of them). Quite common here and in OZ. I also watched the sun set as I drove to Kerikeri but no luck getting a reputable photo.

Overall a good decision to pass Russell with the exception that finding the new holiday parks after dark are proving quite challenging. Regardless, I found this place and once again met new people. I had dinner with a guy from the Czech Republic and a couple from Malaysia. All three were on working holiday, each for 8-12 months. Apparently everyone on working holiday comes here.

The facilities are really nice here, albeit open air and no closed doors. At least at the Country Lodge there were sliding doors that gave one the illusion that it was warmer than the outdoors. As I sit here typing this wrapped in my sleepingbag my car is slowly getting colder and colder. Sign I need to got to bed? Yes. Call me granny.

9pm bedtime. But hey, on GA time that's 5am. Living on the wild side.